A torn engine mount rubber causes vibrations, juddering and noise in the BMW 2 Series, especially at higher mileages. The rubber ages, loses its damping ability and puts extra load on other components. Do you notice vibration through the steering wheel? Do you hear knocking from the engine bay? In that case, the engine mounts need to be checked.
How can you recognise a broken engine mount?
With a defective engine mount, owners clearly notice problems. The rubber or hydraulic filling no longer keeps the engine properly in place. Movement and vibration are transmitted into the cabin.
The most common symptoms are:
- Increased vibrations in the steering wheel, dashboard, brake pedal or gear lever. This is especially noticeable when idling.
- Additional noise from the engine bay, such as knocking, thumping or rattling. The engine noise is transmitted to metal parts of the bodywork, which makes the sound louder.
- Jerks when starting and stopping. The car jolts forwards when the engine is switched on or off.
- Visible damage to the engine mount itself: cracks, breaks or corrosion in the rubber and aluminium. You may sometimes see oil leaking from the mount.
Note: always first check the exhaust hangers (the rubbers that hold the exhaust under the car) and any bent exhaust pipes. These cause similar symptoms such as rattling or vibrations. They are often easier and cheaper to fix.
‘ Mechanics report that the BMW 2 Series with the B47 engine (a four-cylinder diesel engine) is particularly prone to wear. ’
Why does the engine mount rubber fail?
Rubber ages due to exposure to heat, ozone, pressure and temperature changes. The material becomes hard and brittle, loses its elasticity and eventually tears. This problem occurs regularly on the BMW 2 Series, such as the F45 Active Tourer or F46 Gran Tourer.
The engine is mounted transversely in the BMW 2 Series. This position puts extra stress on the engine mounts. Mechanics report that the BMW 2 Series with the B47 engine (a four-cylinder diesel engine) is especially susceptible to wear. One engine mount fails. The other mounts are then more heavily loaded. This speeds up further damage to the shafts that drive the wheels (drive shafts), bearings and even the braking system.
Because the engine can move more than intended, knocking noises and imbalance occur. In extreme cases, flexible parts break due to the forces created by sudden movements.
How do you replace an engine mount on the BMW 2 Series?
Replace the engine mount at the first symptoms. This prevents further damage and keeps driving comfort at the right level. The BMW 2 Series uses engine mounts that contain oil (hydraulic engine mounts). This oil provides better vibration damping. Choose quality parts to prevent the problem from recurring quickly.
Follow these steps to replace an engine mount:
- Safely jack up the car with a jack. Place the car on axle stands or supports.
- Support the engine with a second jack. Place it under the sump.
- Remove the mounting bolts of the defective engine mount
- Lift the engine slightly or lower it in order to remove the old mount
- Fit the new engine mount and tighten the bolts to the correct torque (the prescribed tightening torque is stated in the manual)
- Lower the engine and check that all fixings are properly secured
After replacement, start the engine. Check for vibrations or noises. Mechanics often recommend replacing all engine mounts at the same time. One mount may be defective. Doing them all prevents the remaining mounts from failing quickly due to overloading.
Which engine mount problems occur by model year?
The BMW 2 Series has existed since 2014 in various generations. The F45 Active Tourer and F46 Gran Tourer show engine mount problems mainly at higher mileages. This starts from around 80,000 kilometres. At 120,000 kilometres the complaints are common. This is due to the front-wheel-drive layout with a transversely mounted engine.
On models with the B47 diesel engine, owners more often report problems with vibrations and juddering. Diesel engines produce more torque at low revs. This places additional stress on the rubbers. The combination with an automatic gearbox also causes repeated torque shocks when changing gear.
Models from later model years from 2018 sometimes use improved materials. However, the problem remains. Rubber always ages and remains a wear part. Regular checks help to detect problems at an early stage.
‘ This does not solve the underlying problem. ’
How do you diagnose a defect?
Visual inspection is the first step. Look under the bonnet and from underneath for cracks, oily residue from leaks or sagging of the rubbers. Carefully move the engine block back and forth by hand. This allows you to feel any play.
Another method is to check it under load. Start the engine and observe the movement of the engine block. With a defective mount, the engine moves remarkably far or jerks. Some vibrations decrease once the engine has warmed up. This does not solve the underlying problem.
Also check the universal joints in the prop shaft (Hardy discs), the bearing halfway along the prop shaft (centre bearing) and the rubber of the gearbox mount (gearbox mounting rubber). These parts cause similar noises. A thorough inspection prevents unnecessary replacement. There may also be other causes.
What does it cost to replace an engine mount?
The cost of replacement depends on the type of engine mount and the labour time. A single engine mount costs between 80 and 200 euros, depending on the brand and version. Hydraulic mounts are usually more expensive than standard rubbers.
Labour time varies from one to three hours per mount. Accessibility determines this. If you replace all engine mounts at once, you pay more for parts but relatively less labour per mount. Expect total costs between 400 and 800 euros for replacing all mounts including labour.
Doing the job yourself saves money. You will, however, need tools and experience. Use a solid jack and sturdy supports such as axle stands or ramps. Working underneath a car involves risks. Always check the correct torque (the tightening strength) of the bolts in the installation manual.
How can you prevent rapid wear?
Complete prevention is not possible. Rubber always ages. There are, however, ways to extend its service life. Avoid repeated hard acceleration from a standstill and aggressive clutch control. This reduces extreme loads on the mounts.
Have the engine mounts checked during routine services. A mechanic can detect cracks or leaks at an early stage. Replace defective mounts immediately to prevent overloading the others.
Also inspect related rubbers, such as the rubber of the gearbox mount (gearbox mounting rubber) and the exhaust hangers (the rubbers that hold the exhaust under the car). If these are worn, the engine moves unnecessarily. This puts extra forces on the engine mounts. Preventive maintenance saves costs and improves driving comfort.
‘ Only keep driving if there is really no alternative and book repairs as soon as possible. ’
Can I keep driving with a broken engine mount?
Short journeys are possible, but driving with a defective engine mount is not recommended over long distances. When braking or accelerating suddenly, the engine can shift further than normal. In extreme cases, cables, lines or the exhaust can be damaged by contact with the bodywork.
In addition, a broken mount accelerates wear on other components. Drive shafts, the prop shaft (the shaft that transfers power to the rear on four-wheel drive models) and bearings are more heavily loaded by unnatural movements. Driving comfort also decreases due to increasing vibrations and noise.
Only keep driving if there is really no alternative and book repairs as soon as possible. Mechanics recommend replacing all mounts at the same time. This prevents a repeat of the problem. You then do not face further costs again in the short term.
Frequently asked questions
The most common symptoms are increased vibrations in the steering wheel, dashboard and pedal, especially when idling or accelerating. In addition, you often hear extra noise such as knocking, thumping or rattling from the engine bay. There may also be clear jolts or small shocks when starting and switching off the engine. In some cases there is visible damage to the rubber and the engine may appear slightly tilted or sagging.
A defective engine mount rubber in a BMW 2 Series causes clearly noticeable extra vibrations and noise in the cabin, making the driving experience less comfortable and refined. When accelerating, changing gear and driving over speed bumps, the car may feel more jerky and less smooth. The engine can move more in the engine bay, which affects throttle response and gear changes and leads to more restless driving behaviour. Driving for a long time in this condition can indirectly put extra stress on other components (such as drivetrain and suspension), reducing overall performance and durability.
For a BMW 2 Series there are broadly two types of engine mount rubbers: standard rubber mounts and (oil-filled) hydraulic mounts. Standard mounts are mainly aimed at comfort and vibration damping in normal use. For sporty driving, reinforced or ‘heavy duty’ engine mounts or sport/performance variants are more suitable, because they deform less and keep the engine better in place during hard acceleration or fast gear changes. Do bear in mind that sporty mounts can transmit more vibrations and noise into the cabin.
The expected costs for replacing an engine mount rubber on a BMW 2 Series are generally in the region of a few hundred euros, depending on labour rates and the choice between an original BMW part or a quality aftermarket part. In most cases, expect a total amount of roughly €250–€500. The time required for replacement is usually around 1 to 2 hours of workshop time. Always ask your garage for a specific quote for an accurate estimate of cost and time.
Yes, it is possible to replace an engine mount rubber yourself on a BMW 2 Series, provided you have sufficient technical knowledge and a safe workspace (a lift or sturdy axle stands). You will at least need: a trolley jack with a wooden block to support the engine block or gearbox, a socket set and ring spanners (usually metric), and a breaker bar or ratchet with extensions. In addition, a torque wrench, penetrating oil (for seized bolts) and possibly a crowbar or trim/pry bar are often useful.