Poor handbrake performance and worn handbrake shoes make parking uncertain and can cause serious safety issues. The good news: this relatively simple maintenance prevents a lot of worries. Discover how your handbrake works, when adjustment or replacement is needed and what you can do yourself.
How does the handbrake in your car work?
The handbrake works mechanically, independently of the hydraulic braking system. In most cars the operation starts at the lever in the cabin. Newer models often have an electronic parking brake button. When you pull the lever, you tension a cable system that runs to the rear wheels. There the cables activate a braking mechanism that presses the brake shoes against a drum or against a special braking surface in the rear brake disc.
The design is cleverly thought out. In models such as the Volvo V70 the parking brake is often a separate drum construction inside the brake disc. This is a compact braking system within the larger brake disc. This compact solution provides good holding power when parked. The system also continues to work if the service brake pressure is lost. The locking mechanism keeps the brake engaged automatically. You therefore do not need to hold the lever.
Important characteristics of handbrake performance:
- the operation is mechanical, not hydraulic
- the handbrake continues to work, even if the service brake pressure is lost
- the brake usually only acts on the rear wheels
- the locking mechanism holds the brake; you therefore do not need to hold the lever
What are handbrake shoes and how do they work?
Handbrake shoes are brake segments – the half-round parts of the braking mechanism – with friction material. This is a special layer that creates friction and presses against a drum surface. In many cars with rear disc brakes, the parking brake is not integrated into the main brake calliper. Instead, there is a separate drum construction inside the brake disc. This design is often used because it is reliable when stationary and takes up little space in the suspension.
The operating principle in brief:
- the handbrake cable is tensioned
- a lever or spreading mechanism pushes the shoes apart
- the lining presses against the drum
- friction locks the axle or slows wheel rotation
- when released, springs pull everything back
Why is my handbrake not working properly?
Poor handbrake performance is usually related to wear, adjustment or corrosion. In particular, seized cables due to rust are a common cause. The handbrake shoes wear through use. In addition, they can become contaminated by brake dust and moisture. This speeds up the process of contamination and wear. Winter use and road salt accelerate this further. The cables can also stretch or seize over time. As a result, the brake no longer grips properly.
Common signs that a handbrake needs attention:
- the car still rolls slightly on a slope
- the handbrake lever has to be pulled up very high
- the handbrake grips unevenly left and right
- there is a grinding or dragging noise from the rear brake
- the car is hard to release after parking
- after rain or frost, the handbrake temporarily remains stuck
A weak handbrake is often not just due to the cable. Usually several components play a role. Worn shoes or contaminated contact surfaces can be a cause. Incorrect adjustment also leads to problems. In older cars corrosion can obstruct the operation. Due to rust formation in the drum or brake disc construction, moving parts can seize.
How do I adjust my handbrake?
Adjusting the handbrake is not always the same. The method differs per car model. In many cars, the adjustment is accessible via an adjuster nut under the car, at the handbrake cables. When you tighten this nut, you shorten the cable. This raises the brake engagement point. Is the brake too tight? Then loosen the nut again. You should also do this if the rear wheels are dragging.
Steps for adjusting a mechanical handbrake:
- Park the car on a flat surface.
- Put the car in first gear or in park.
- Apply the handbrake a few clicks, usually three or four.
- Get safely under the car.
- Locate the adjuster nut on the cable system.
- Carefully tighten the nut.
- Check whether the rear wheels are lightly locked.
- Release the handbrake and check that the wheels spin freely.
- Fully apply the handbrake and check that the car stands firmly.
Note: are the shoes worn? Then adjustment will not solve the problem. In that case the issue lies in the components themselves. The handbrake shoes must then be replaced. If in doubt, it is sensible to have the condition of the shoes checked first.
‘ “Regular use keeps the mechanism moving freely.” ’
How long do handbrake shoes last?
Handbrake shoes usually last longer than regular brake pads, because they are only used when parking. On average, you can reckon on a service life of 80,000 to 150,000 kilometres, depending on driving patterns and conditions. Cars that are regularly parked on slopes or often driven in dusty or salty environments wear faster.
Service life depends on how often you use the handbrake. The intensity of use also plays a role. Regular operation keeps the mechanism moving freely. This prevents seized cables or levers. In cars with an automatic gearbox, the handbrake is sometimes used too rarely. As a result, components can rust solid.
How much does handbrake repair cost?
The costs of handbrake repair vary. The price depends on which parts have to be replaced. Replacing handbrake shoes costs on average between 150 and 300 euros, including labour. Only need the adjustment corrected? Then it is usually cheaper. Cable replacement is usually between 100 and 200 euros per side.
Cost overview for common jobs:
- handbrake adjustment: 30 to 60 euros
- replacing handbrake shoes: 150 to 300 euros
- replacing handbrake cables: 100 to 200 euros per side
- any additional parts such as springs or levers: 20 to 80 euros
During a service, the handbrake is often checked as standard. The mechanic then looks at the main wear points. Many garages then check the condition of the cables and the operation of the levers and return springs. The thickness and condition of the handbrake shoes are also checked. This allows you to detect problems at an early stage and prevents more extensive repairs.
Can I do this myself?
Adjusting the handbrake is something you can generally do yourself. You do, however, need basic knowledge and the right tools. You usually need a socket or spanner set. In addition, you need access to the underside of the car via a lift or firmly chocked ramps. Make sure you can work safely. The car must be fully secured before you go underneath.
Replacing handbrake shoes is technically more complex. For example, it requires you to remove the brake discs and wheels. You have to remove the rear wheels and brake discs. Sometimes you also replace return springs, levers and retaining systems. For those who are used to brake maintenance, this is doable. It does, however, require good tools and some experience. Bear in mind that the shoes must be replaced on both rear wheels. This guarantees even braking performance.
Important point of attention: are you unsure about the condition of the brakes? Or do you see rust in the drum or brake disc construction? Then have this checked by a professional. A properly functioning handbrake is essential. It is important for safe parking. It is also indispensable for a reliable vehicle inspection and for everyday use.
‘ Winter use and road salt accelerate wear. ’
Practical tips to prevent handbrake problems
Use the handbrake regularly. This keeps the mechanism moving freely. If you do not use the parking brake for a long time, cables, levers and shoes can seize. Even with an automatic gearbox, it is a good idea to operate the handbrake from time to time.
Do not pull the handbrake unnecessarily hard. Extra force is usually not needed. Too much force can, in the long run, contribute to cable wear. It can also mask an uncomfortably high engagement point. Check the engagement point regularly. A properly functioning handbrake usually grips fairly quickly and firmly. Do you need many clicks? Then adjustment or maintenance is often necessary.
Watch out for corrosion and dirt. Older cars are more sensitive to this. Handbrake shoes can rust solid. They can also become contaminated with brake dust and moisture. Winter use and road salt accelerate wear. Has work recently been done on the rear brakes, brake discs or cables? Then the parking brake performance must be checked again. Incorrect adjustment can lead to a weak handbrake. It can also cause dragging brakes.
On the Carnews website you will find much more information about car maintenance. There you can read about common problems and practical tips. Discover everything you need to keep your car safe and reliable.
Frequently asked questions
The (mechanical) handbrake usually works via a cable that moves brake shoes or a separate mechanism in the rear brake, so that these press against a drum or braking surface and lock the rear wheels. The regular braking system, on the other hand, is a hydraulic system: when you press the brake pedal, a master cylinder builds up hydraulic pressure which, via brake lines, actuates the brake callipers or cylinders at all the wheels. The handbrake is primarily intended to lock the car when stationary and generally only works on the rear wheels. The essential difference is therefore mechanical cable operation and parking function (handbrake) versus hydraulic pressure and dynamic braking function on all wheels (service brake).
Signs of worn handbrake shoes include the car still rolling on a slope, the handbrake lever needing many clicks, uneven grip left/right and grinding or dragging noises from the rear brakes. The car may also be hard to “free” after parking or may drive away with little force with the handbrake still on. Worn or poorly adjusted handbrake shoes reduce the braking force of the parking brake, which means the car can start rolling unexpectedly. This is an immediate hazard when parking on a slope and also limits the emergency braking function of the handbrake.
Use the handbrake regularly but without excessive force, and make sure the mechanism stays clean, well lubricated and is checked/adjusted periodically to prevent dragging. Avoid driving with the handbrake slightly applied, parking for long periods with wet or overheated brakes, and do not set the handbrake too tight. Wear on the handbrake shoes is mainly influenced by driving and parking habits (slopes, frequency), moisture and corrosion, contamination with brake dust and salt, and incorrect adjustment or seized levers/cables. Regular inspection of shoes, cables, springs and drum surface significantly extends their service life.
For an experienced car enthusiast with good tools, a workshop manual and knowledge of braking systems, replacing handbrake shoes is in principle a realistic DIY job. However, the work requires precision (correct assembly, cleaning and adjustment), because an incorrectly fitted or poorly adjusted handbrake poses an immediate safety risk. If you are unsure about your own knowledge, or if there is rust, seized components or complex adjustment involved, professional help is strongly recommended.
The typical costs for replacing handbrake shoes are roughly between €150 and €350 at an independent garage, and can be higher at a main dealer. This price usually includes the new handbrake shoes, small fitting materials (springs, pins, adjuster mechanism) and labour. The handbrake cables are often checked and adjusted if necessary. If the integrated disc/drum units are worn or grooved, the cost of new discs and brake pads will be added.
In cars with an electronic parking brake, the button replaces the traditional handbrake lever, but the function remains the same: to keep the car safely in place mechanically (via the rear brakes), often automatically when you stop. The system can also offer driver-assistance functions such as automatic hold on a slope and automatic release when driving off. For maintenance it is important that the mechanical parts (cables/levers or brake shoes in the rear brakes) remain clean, move freely and are correctly adjusted. In addition, servicing the rear brakes often requires a special service mode or diagnostic tool to wind the electric callipers in and out correctly and prevent damage.