Banging, creaking or rattling noises from the suspension are common complaints on many cars. These suspension issues are caused by wear to shock absorbers and drop links. This mainly happens between 40,000 and 80,000 kilometres. The good news: most causes are relatively easy and affordable to fix. Discover what causes those noises and how to recognise them.
What causes banging noises in the suspension?
Suspension noises are caused by worn components in the running gear. The most common culprits are shock absorbers and anti-roll bar links. Shock absorbers dampen vibrations and ensure a comfortable ride. Over time their internal parts wear out, so they no longer do their job properly. You then hear a banging noise. This happens when the car drives over bumps or speed humps.
Drop links connect the anti-roll bar to the wheel suspension. They are also called anti-roll bar link rods. These components contain rubber bushes and ball joints. These can wear after a few tens of thousands of kilometres. In cold weather you hear creaking or banging noises when these rubbers dry out. The Seat Alhambra is a well-known example of this, with typical complaints about banging noises over speed humps and bumps.
Worn ball joints in the control arms can cause ticking or banging noises. This is due to play in these joints. You notice this as looseness. Sometimes you can even feel it in the steering wheel. Squeaking noises indicate a lack of grease in these joints. That lack causes friction and noise.
‘ When the drop links are worn, the bar can no longer do its job properly. ’
Why drop links and rubber components wear out
Drop links contain rubber bushes. The suspension is the system that connects the wheels to the body. Movements of that system put the rubbers under continuous load. These rubbers are exposed to moisture, salt and temperature changes. In winter the rubber dries out. It then becomes hard and develops cracks. This wear creates play. That play develops in the connection between the anti-roll bar and the wheel.
The anti-roll bar keeps the car stable in bends. This component prevents the car from leaning too much. When the drop links are worn, the bar can no longer do its job properly. The car then leans more. You notice this as banging noises over uneven surfaces. You will also notice reduced stability when cornering. Most drop links fail between 40,000 and 70,000 kilometres, depending on driving conditions.
Control arm rubbers have the same problem. These are also called silentblocks. Silentblocks are rubber blocks between the control arm and the body. These rubbers sit between the control arm and the body. They dampen vibrations. On cold starts you hear creaking or banging. The noises become less once the rubbers warm up. This is a clear sign that the rubbers are losing their elasticity.
How to test the suspension during a test drive
Carry out a thorough test drive to find out what condition your suspension is in. Drive over a few speed humps in cold weather. That way you test the suspension in cold conditions. Note whether the noise comes from the front or rear. Also check if it is at a specific wheel. Pay attention to the following signs:
- Banging noise over speed humps or bumps points to shock absorbers or drop links
- Creaking noise on the first drive that then fades points to worn rubbers
- Ticking noise in bends indicates ball joints
- Rattling noise from the wheels can be the anti-roll bar or its bushes
After the drive, carry out a visual inspection. Then look at specific components. Look under the car for cracks in rubber parts. Also check the play in the drop links. Use a jack to lift one wheel. Then try to wobble the wheel. Do you feel clear play? Do you hear a click? Then components are worn.
Also test the car’s road behaviour. Do this while driving and braking normally. Does the car pull to one side? Does it weave under braking? Uneven damping causes this. Problems with control arms and track rods can also be the cause. With a fully loaded car, watch for sagging at the corners. Sagging indicates weak shock absorbers.
Which components should you have checked?
Some components are more suspicious than others. With suspension noises, shock absorbers are at the top of the list. They dampen vibrations. They also keep the tyres on the road. Defective shock absorbers bang when the suspension compresses after a bump. They also make the car feel bouncy. The handling then becomes uncomfortable. Test them by pressing down on a corner of the car and letting go. Does the car keep bouncing? Then the shock absorbers are worn.
Top mounts sit on top of the shock absorbers. They support the damper and absorb movement. Top mounts also contain rubber. These can cause creaking noises. You hear this when steering. The anti-roll bar with its rubbers and drop links also deserves attention. First check the rubbers. Then check the drop links themselves. Loose connections cause banging noises. They also cause reduced stability.
Ball joints in the control arms are crucial. They provide the connection between wheel and body. This connection must remain solid for safe driving. Play here is dangerous. It also increases braking distance. Check the control arm rubbers. Are noises worse on a cold start? Then pay particular attention to the control arm rubbers. On models with air suspension, listen for hissing noises. These indicate leaking air springs. Also listen for a humming noise. That comes from a defective compressor.
‘ This results in better and safer handling. ’
How much does it cost to replace shock absorbers?
The cost of replacing shock absorbers varies by make and model. Expect an amount between 300 and 600 euros per axle for parts and labour. Aftermarket shock absorbers are cheaper than original parts. However, quality differs by brand. Cheap versions fail sooner. They need replacing earlier.
Drop links are significantly cheaper. Think of less than 200 euros per side including labour. Replacing control arm rubbers costs around 200 euros per side including labour. That amount is comparable to drop links. Mechanics advise replacing components per axle. Both sides then have equal damping. This results in better and safer handling.
With air suspension the costs are higher. A compressor costs around 300 euros. Air springs cost between 150 and 400 euros each. Have the compressor tested first before replacing air springs. The problem may lie there. Carry out preventive maintenance. This will save you money in the long term. Have the suspension checked annually. Do this above 100,000 kilometres. At that point, checks are extra important.
Tips for prevention and saving costs
Carry out regular inspections. That way you spot small problems before they lead to large costs, and you can fix them in time. Use grease in ball joints. This significantly extends their service life. Clean the underside of the car after driving through salt-rich winter conditions. Salt accelerates the wear of rubbers. Timely cleaning prevents damage.
Always replace complete sets. That guarantees even damping. One new shock absorber next to an old one upsets the balance. The handling is then negatively affected. Also replace drop links per axle. This keeps damping equal on both sides. Make your own diagnosis using a jack and lever. Lift the wheel and wobble it. This quickly gives you clarity about the cause of noises.
Do not ignore noises for too long. Take action within a few days if noises persist. Play in the suspension increases braking distance. It also makes the car less stable. This causes discomfort. It is also dangerous for road safety. If in doubt, have the car checked by a professional. Always do so as well if there are serious noises.
Discover more about car problems and maintenance
Suspension noises are just one aspect of car maintenance you have to deal with as an owner. On the Carnews website you will find extensive information about common car problems. You will also find maintenance tips. Practical guides for different makes and models are there too. Want to know more about engine problems? Information on electronics and other maintenance topics is also available. There is always an article that will help you further. Discover more and stay up to date with everything that keeps your car healthy and safe.
Frequently asked questions
Knocking, banging, creaking or rattling over speed humps, bumps or when steering often indicate worn ball joints, control arm rubbers, anti-roll bars or shock absorbers (and with air suspension, leaking air springs or a defective compressor, often with a hissing or humming noise). To locate the noise yourself, drive slowly over speed humps and listen whether it comes from the front, rear, left or right, and whether it is louder in cold weather. Then park the car on a level surface, rock the body up and down at each corner and listen close to each wheel for creaks or ticks, and visually check rubbers and connections for cracks or play. If possible, jack up each wheel in turn and move the wheel horizontally and vertically to feel and hear play and the associated knocks or ticks.
Suspension problems reduce stability, increase body roll and cause unpredictable behaviour in corners, making sporty driving feel nervous and less precise. Worn shock absorbers and rubbers make the car bounce and oscillate more, which reduces tyre grip and can increase braking distance. Play in ball joints, control arms or anti-roll bars makes the steering vague and delayed, so you can steer less accurately. When driving fast over bumps, the car can therefore break away more easily or trigger interventions from ESP/ABS, which undermines confidence in the car.
The most common causes of noise from the suspension are worn ball joints, control arm rubbers (silentblocks), anti-roll bars/bar rubbers and shock absorbers or top mounts. Simple checks are: listening carefully over speed humps (to locate front/rear), a visual check under the car for torn or collapsed rubbers and sagging corners, and with the car jacked up, grabbing the wheel and rocking it back and forth to feel for play. Compare behaviour on cold and warm drives: more creaking immediately after setting off often points to dried-out rubbers. With air suspension, also listen for hissing (leak) or humming (compressor) noises and watch for uneven sagging when stationary.
Immediately dangerous and requiring action are loud banging, ticking or knocking noises over bumps/corners (especially with noticeable play in the steering), strong bouncing or instability, and hissing noises with obvious sagging of the car (possibly an air leak or air spring problem). A clearly humming, continuously running compressor on air suspension that does not keep the car at normal height also needs fast diagnosis to prevent further damage. Creaking noises at cold start that lessen as everything warms up, or light knocks over uneven surfaces without noticeable instability, are usually less urgent but should still be checked within a reasonable time. Light rattles or squeaks without effect on handling and without the car sagging can usually wait until the next service, provided they do not quickly get worse.
It is generally more cost-effective to replace suspension components with performance parts when several components are worn at the same time and you have to (or want to) remove them all in one go anyway. This is especially true if you have higher demands on handling and durability, because in a single labour operation you then carry out both repair and upgrade. On cars with complex systems (such as air suspension), it can be economically smarter to switch straight to a better, more durable set rather than repeatedly replacing standard parts. It is less worthwhile if only one cheap component is worn and you otherwise have no need for sportier or firmer handling.